Bonds of the sea: exploring the magnetic world of surfing in "Barbarian Days"

Named on Obama’s 2016 summer reading list, William Finnegan’s "Barbarian Days" is a revelatory look into the fraternal and dangerous world of surfing, as well as a history of the sea that could sit beside the best of Twain and Conrad
Read more: https://www.theguardian.com/books/2016/aug/17/bonds-of-the-sea-exploring-the-magnetic-world-of-surfing-in-barbarian-days?source=Snapzu